Singapore Fling:

AS I walked in the balmy heat along Orchard Road, Singapore's main shopping drag, where the shops range from pocket-friendly stores such as Mango to budget-busting designer boutiques, I was struck by the gulf between what I had thought I knew about Singapore and the reality.

Sure, I had read about the opium dens and colonial rule of years gone by, but what I didn't realise until I visited Singapore for myself, was that it was such a melting pot of different traditions, a bridge between east and west.

It's a place where modern glass skyscrapers and old Hindu temples can occupy the same street, where Chinese, Indian and Malay cultures and their various religions rub alongside the physical reminders of colonialism, such as English language street signs and the magnificent Parliament House, which stands proud on the edge of the Singapore River.

Later, sipping on a Singapore Sling in the Long Bar of the famous Raffles Hotel, I realised I'd been misinformed by the tourist T-shirts - Singapore is indeed a 'fine' city, like the slogans say, but in more ways than one.

This affluent city state is certainly famous - or should that be infamous - for its myriad list of rules governing what is, and isn't, acceptable (resulting in financial penalties for law-breakers) - from spitting on the streets to littering, jaywalking, failing to flush a toilet after use and smoking in public places - which, from a tourist point of view, seems reasonable, if not downright desirable.

And since such rules result in a low crime rate and spotlessly clean streets, it's hard to see why anyone would want to do any of those things and risk spoiling Singapore's pristine image anyway.

In terms of it being a fine place to stay, the truth is that Singapore, which is, rather confusingly, the name of the city, as well as the island and country, is much more than merely 'ok'.

Although often seen as a convenient stopover on the way to Australia, it has a lot more to offer tourists than just a bed for the night.

From the maze of streets in Chinatown, crammed with antique sellers, food stalls and herbalists selling dried sea horses to the heady, spice-scented streets in and around Little India to the colonial grandeur of much of its architecture, Singapore offers a sample of Asia as a whole, within a compact 264 square miles.

Its status as a small island, on the southern tip of Malaysia, means that it is often overlooked by those seeking a flavour of the Far East, but what it lacks in size it more than makes up for in variety, with 'flavour' being the operative word, since Singapore is also arguably the food capital of Asia.

Singaporeans like to eat, and there's a huge variety of Asian cuisine available from hawker stalls and department store food courts alike, including the unofficial national dish, wok-fried crab with chilli, garlic and tomato paste.

Beware the durian, though, as notorious as Singapore's numerous fiscal penalties, and often banned in hotels and public areas, this fruit has become legendary for its stench, often described as a blend of smelly socks and strawberries.

Be prepared, mind you, to sample its creamy, cheesy, yet custardy, taste, as tackling a slice is something of a rite-of-passage for tourists, if only to give the locals a laugh when they see you scrunch up your face and stick your tongue out in disgust - yet, I must admit, I didn't mind the taste, although it might have helped that, shortly after my durian initiation I headed straight for Raffles (named after Sir Stamford Raffles, Singapore's founder).

Like tasting the durian, sampling a Sling in the place it was invented in 1915 is a pre-requisite for visitors - in fact, the powers-that-be could do worse than consider making 'non-appreciation of the local cocktail' a suitable category for a fine!

When it comes to after-dark entertainment, visitors can opt for the hip clubs of the renovated urban waterfront area at Clarke Quay or choose nightlife of a different kind at the Night Safari, the first attraction of its kind in the world.

Located next door to the zoo, here, you can see more than 900 nocturnal animals and around 130 exotic species, such as the rare one-horned rhino, in their natural surroundings, by either choosing a walking trail or touring the 40 hectares of forest in a tram.

East and west, ancient and modern, shopping and spirituality, all side-by-side - Singapore offers it all.

So it's fitting that the country's symbol is the Merlion, a half-fish, half-lion that fuses two very different creatures in one being - not a bad emblem for a place which manages to offer so much variety while never failing to be less than the sum of all its parts.

SIDE BAR - SENTOSA

LIKE Disneyland without Mickey Mouse, or Australia without kangaroos, Sentosa just wouldn't be the same without its giant, 37-metre high, Merlion statue.

Sentosa is Singapore's largest offshore island (the two are linked by a causeway bridge), and is the country's favourite leisure resort, where locals go to hang out for the weekend and tourists arrive for some R&R after flexing their credit cards on Orchard Road.

It doesn't matter whether you're into golf, sunbathing, shopping, nature or wildlife, the authorities here really have made sure that your interests will be catered to.

With two golf courses and two five star hotels on the island, you could happily use Sentosa - the name translates from Malay as 'tranquillity' - as your base and find that you never even venture onto the mainland.

Those in the know usually rave about it, yet few people outside of the region have ever heard of it, although with the huge development it has undergone in recent years, the hope is that it will rival Bali or Phuket in years to come.

The government first developed the island, which is just 15 minutes away from the city by car, for recreational purposes in 1972, and, over the past few years, billions of Singapore dollars have been poured into improving it.

Among the numerous attractions are the Butterfly Park, the Underwater World oceanarium and the Dolphin Lagoon, with its 'meet the dolphins' sessions.

Another place to see is Fort Siloso, a military fortress built by the British in the 1880s, and which now houses a permanent military-themed exhibition.

The island is also great for sports, from golf to volleyball, although the humidity in this part of the world, which lies close to the equator, can be gruelling if you're involved in strenuous physical activity.

Much more relaxing is sunbathing and downing an ice-cold Tiger beer in a beach bar on one of the island's three stretches of beach.

And when it comes to communing with nature, the fact that the island boasts its own rainforest means that you may just catch sight of monkeys, peacocks and parrots, as well as that famous giant stone Merlion.

Its status as a small island, on the southern tip of Malaysia, means that it is often overlooked by those seeking a flavour of the Far East, but what it lacks in size it more than makes up for in variety, with 'flavour' being the operative word, since Singapore is also arguably the food capital of Asia.

Singaporeans like to eat, and there's a huge variety of Asian cuisine available, from hawker stalls and department store food courts alike, including the unofficial national dish, wok-fried crab with chilli, garlic and tomato paste.

Beware the durian, though, as notorious as Singapore's numerous fiscal penalties, and often banned in hotels and public areas, this fruit has become legendary for its stench, often described as a blend of smelly socks and strawberries.

Be prepared, mind you, to sample its creamy, cheesy, yet custardy, taste, as tackling a slice is something of a rite-of-passage for tourists, if only to give the locals a laugh when they see you scrunch up your face and stick your tongue out in disgust - yet, I must admit, I didn't mind the taste, although it might have helped that, shortly after my durian initiation, I headed straight for Raffles (named after Sir Stamford Raffles, Singapore's founder).

Like tasting the durian, sampling a Sling in the place it was invented in 1915 is a pre-requisite for visitors - in fact, the powers-that-be could do worse than consider making 'non-appreciation of the local cocktail' a suitable category for a fine!

When it comes to after-dark entertainment, visitors can opt for the hip clubs of the renovated urban waterfront area at Clarke Quay or choose nightlife of a different kind at the Night Safari, the first attraction of its kind in the world.

Located next door to the zoo, here, you can see more than 900 nocturnal animals and around 130 exotic species, such as the rare one-horned rhino, in their natural surroundings, by either choosing a walking trail or touring the 40 hectares of forest in a tram.

East and west, ancient and modern, shopping and spirituality, all side-by-side, Singapore offers it all.

So it's fitting that the country's symbol is the Merlion, a half-fish, half-lion that fuses two very different creatures in one being - not a bad emblem for a place which manages to offer so much variety while never failing to be less than the sum of all its parts.

LIKE Disneyland without Mickey Mouse, or Australia without kangaroos, Sentosa just wouldn't be the same without its giant, 37-metre high, Merlion statue.

Sentosa is Singapore's largest offshore island (the two are linked by a causeway bridge), and is the country's favourite leisure resort, where locals go to hang out for the weekend and tourists arrive for some R&R after flexing their credit cards on Orchard Road.

It doesn't matter whether you're into golf, sunbathing, shopping, nature or wildlife, the authorities here really have made sure that your interests will be catered to.

With two golf courses and two five star hotels on the island, you could happily use Sentosa - the name translates from Malay as 'tranquillity' - as your base and find that you never even venture onto the mainland.

Those in the know usually rave about it, yet few people outside of the region have ever heard of it, although with the huge development it has undergone in recent years, the hope is that it will rival Bali or Phuket in years to come.

The government first developed the island, which is just 15 minutes away from the city by car, for recreational purposes in 1972, and, over the past few years, billions of Singapore dollars have been poured into improving it.

Among the numerous attractions are the Butterfly Park, the Underwater World oceanarium and the Dolphin Lagoon, with its 'meet the dolphins' sessions. Another place to see is Fort Siloso, a military fortress built by the British in the 1880s, and which now houses a permanent military-themed exhibition.

The island is also great for sports, although the humidity in this part of the world, which lies close to the equator, can be gruelling if you're involved in strenuous physical activity.

Much more relaxing is sunbathing and downing an ice-cold Tiger beer in a beach bar on one of the island's three stretches of beach. And when it comes to communing with nature, the fact that the island boasts its own rainforest means that you may just catch sight of monkeys, peacocks and parrots, as well as that famous giant stone Merlion.

GETTING THERE: There are no direct flights to Singapore from Dublin although Singapore Airlines has an office in Dublin and flies Dublin-Singapore via London. Singapore Airlines, BA and Quantas fly direct from Heathrow. Flight time is approx. 14 hours. From Changi International Airport (often voted the best airport in the world), trains run into the city, plus there are frequent buses and taxis.

CLIMATE: Unlike some countries with heavy rainy seasons, Singapore gets a steady annual rainfall, so plan you visit for anytime of the year. Lying close to the equator, the weather is hot, balmy and humid with temperatures averaging around 30-35C by day and around 25C at night.

GETTING AROUND: Taxis are cheap, clean and numerous. Hailing one from the street offers an easy way to get around the city, or to and from Sentosa island.

CURRENCY: The Singapore dollar is worth around 33p (Sterling). Major credit cards are widely accepted, although if you're bargaining at a night market or paying for street food from a hawker stall, use cash. Tipping isn't expected but is becoming more common while some hotels and restaurants add a 10 per cent service charge to your bill. It's not usually the custom to tip taxi drivers. Prices for basics (food, transport, hotel rooms etc.) cost more than in many other south east Asian countries